Sakura, Tysons Corner, VA

Does anyone go to teppanyaki restaurants for the food? I mean, the food isn't really that bad, but it usually isn't worth going out of your way for. The reason I go to hibachi places is to have the chefs entertain me. In addition to the clanging of utensils on the griddle, the tick-a-tick-a-tick-a of the metal pepper shaker beaten against the cooking fork, the small explosion of fire on the griddle and so on, I enjoy a chef who can crack jokes and establish rapport with the customers.

I've been to only five or six Japanese steak houses, so I can't say I'm an expert on teppanyaki chefs. I do, however, have a favorite among the dozen or so chefs who have cooked for me. If you ever have a hankering for knives slashing and utensils clanking in front of you while you eat steak, chicken or seafood, go to Sakura and ask for its head chef, Taka-san.

My family went there again for about the 10th time last night, and we were fortunate to get Taka-san as our chef. He tells the same old jokes and uses the same old props from since the first time we met him, but we still laugh. It has almost gotten to the point where we look forward the the same jokes. Sometimes I front-run his jokes by laughing in anticipation of the joke. We've had three or four other chefs serve us at this restaurant, but they were all forgettable.

Sakura is a chain of about 14 or so restaurants, mostly in Maryland and Virginia (compare that to the hundreds of Benihana's around the world). The Tysons restaurant is quite big. The food is acceptable, but, again, I go for the entertainment and not the food.

The cost of the meal, including tip, a couple of beers and some sashimi appetizer, for three people came to about $135. My son, as usual, ordered one of the most expensive items on the menu -- a combo of filet mignon, scallop and shrimp. Try the chicken livers, if your tastes run that way.